DIY Laying Carpet

Carpeting your own floors is one way to save money and be cost effective. Not only is it a quick way to add value to your home, it can freshen up your room and give it a total makeover especially if you are looking at putting your house on the market or buying a new home.


Just be careful along the way, as it may interfere with your product warranties and in some cases it may be easier to just get it installed by a professional so you can just view the final product without having to outlay any hard work, apart from the colour choice of course.

So here are some of our tips if you plan to DIY your new carpet

Step 1 – Prepare your floor base

You will most likely need to remove your existing floor coverings to make room for your new carpet. Ensure that your floor is level and clean before you commence.

Tools that you may need to do the job:

  • Tacks
  • Tack strip
  • Hammer
  • Malet
  • Underlay
  • Carpet
  • Needle & course thread
  • Wall trimmer
  • Knee kicker
  • Stair tool
  • Hot melt tape
  • Carpet stretcher

Step 2 – Installation

The Tack Strip for edging


Firstly – nail in your tack strip around the entire perimeter of the area to be carpeted, except any doorways. Leave a gap between the tack strip and the wall (the width of the new carpet’s thickness).   Hammer down your strip,


and spread out your underlay with the smooth side up within the tack strip area, ensuring it’s the correct type recommended by the retailer for your chosen carpet.

Trimming edges and laying it out

Once you’ve got your underlay down, ensure you trim away the edge of a carpet that is woven so that it will not fray or ravel as recommended by the manufacturer – this is usually about 2 cm from the selvage (if necessary).

Roll out your carpet and let it relax before fixing it into place.   Before and during the installation ensure you have plenty of ventilation in the area where you’ll be laying your carpet, and make sure you keep the area dry.

If you are planning to use hot melt tape to seal the fresh cut seams of your carpet you’ll need to use the carpet stretcher to condition the carpet for the non-stretchy hot melt tape.   For tufted carpets you should use either tape as well as latex, hot melt tape, electric tape or pin tape.  For most woven carpets, you will need to hand sew and pin tape areas as recommended.

Once you have the carpet in place and tape joins have settled, use the power stretcher as recommended by the manufacturer. Only apply the degree of stretch required for your carpet type as recommended, the stretcher smooths & stretches the carpet into it’s final resting place on top of the tack strip. Hook the carpet onto the tack strip and trim the excess pieces of carpet.  When using a wall trimmer be careful to leave enough excess carpet to tuck into the gap and don’t staple your carpet to the tack strip.

Step 3 – Carpeting stairs

If you’re installing new carpet to a staircase you should make sure the stair nosing’s are well rounded and not square to prevent unnecessary damage to both your carpet and underlay. For an extra good fit, cut the underlay about 3 cm narrower than the width of the stairs so you will be able to turn the carpeting edge under. You may also need to install tack strip on each step to maintain proper tension in the carpeting.

Attach a tack strip on each tread and riser with pins on the steps aiming toward the riser and having the pins of the riser tack strip pointing down toward the tread.   The gap you leave between the treads should be a little less than twice your carpet’s thickness.


  • Put down your underlay.
  • Use a knee kicker or stair stretcher to install your carpet and make the carpet look as smooth as possible.
  • Fit your carpet to the tack strip as tightly as possible, pushing it into the gullies between the treads and the risers using a stair tool.
  • Make sure the carpet lays smoothly over the stair’s steps.

When you are finished installing your carpet remove all the excess trim and vacuum the entire surface & corners.  You are now ready to enjoy your new carpet and the satisfaction of doing your own carpeting job.

If all of this sounds too hard, speak to one of our experts in store

All you questions about blinds answered


Q: Do I need to measure my windows?
A: Andersens offers a free measure and quote service, so don’t hesitate to contact your local Andersens store today to quote on your blinds and you can be confident that the most accurate measurements are taken to avoid any mistakes.

Q: Should I have my blinds face fitted or recessed?
A: This depends on the type of blinds you require. Don’t hesitate to contact your local Andersens store for free expert advice to find the best product for your home.

Q: Do blinds fade?
A: Yes all blinds will fade over time but many fabric ranges have a block out coating to help protect them from premature fading. Particular vertical and roller blinds also have anti-fade pigments that ensure no colour change. Ask your Andersens window furnishing representative for the best product to suit your requirements.

Q: Will blinds keep my house warm in winter and cool in summer?
A: Yes, and as a result they will also help reduce your heating and cooling costs.

Q: How should I clean my blinds?
A: Regular dusting with a static dust glove or soft clean cloth is recommended. For all products (except real wood blinds), a citrus based or non-ammonia based cleaner diluted with water can also be used.

Q: Should I match my blinds to my walls and floor?
A: Choosing the right colour, texture and product could either make or break your room. For instance, if you choose blinds to match your walls, they make the room look bigger, if you match it to your floor it may make the room look smaller than it is. Let our experienced Colour Consultants help make your decision the right one.

Q: Where can I find your nearest showroom?
A: Check our ‘Find a store near you’ page and you will see the location closest to you. Don’t forget to check the store’s product list to ensure they offer blinds, as not all our stores have them.

To find out more about roller blinds, venetian blinds, vertical blinds, roman blinds, panel glides, timber shutters and other kinds of window furnishings click here!

How to re-grout tiles

Have you started to discover the grout around your tiles is crumbling away or is just not there due to wear and tear? Not only does it look horrible is will be allowing moisture into your walls and floor which over time will loosen and lift the tiles. If this is the case then it’s time to re-grout. Here are some tips on how to do it yourself, however if you would prefer a professional to assist or perhaps its time to renovate and replace with a more modern tile, Andersens can help.


Preparing the Tile

  1. Choose a grout colour. If you are re-grouting an entire bathroom, choose a colour that matches the tile. For small jobs, match the grout colour with the existing grout.
  2. Scrub the tiles and grout with a household cleaning solution
  3. Saw along the grout lines with a grout saw or small knife that cuts into narrow spaces.
  4.  Remove the remaining grout with a chisel or utility knife.
  5. Vacuum out the leftover chunks or debris from the spaces around the tile. If any of the tiles need to be replaced, replace them now.
  6. Clean the tile. Remove soap scum and dirt. Any household cleaner designed to remove soap scum is perfect for the job.

Apply the Grout

  1. Mix the grout. Grout is sold pre-mixed or dry. If you need to mix the grout, read the directions on the package and follow the instructions. Latex-modified grout is more water resistant and does not crack over time.
  2. Spread the grout over the tile and smooth it out with a grout float. Angle the top of the float to 30 degrees.
  3. Use the float to press the grout into the empty spaces between the tiles. When the grout becomes hard to push down, the spaces are full.
  4. Run the float across the top of the tiles to remove excess grout.
  5. Wait five to ten minutes. Wet a sponge with water and wipe over the top of the tiles to clean any leftover grout.
  6. Cure the grout for at least three days.
  7. Seal the grout with a grout sealer. This keeps water and mildew out of the grout. If using ceramic tiles, use a silicone or water-based grout sealer. Brush it along the joints between the tiles. Wipe excess sealant off the surface of the tiles. If you have porous tiles, use an acrylic top-coat and seal the entire surface of the tile.

To view Andersens range of floor tiles visit our website